You might be noticing a bunch of little gray “bugs” with lots of legs hanging out in your basement, under mulch, or around old wood. Those are sowbugs or pillbugs. Fun fact: they’re not actually insects at all, they’re crustaceans… more closely related to lobsters than anything else!

They love cool, damp, dark places, which is why they show up where they do. The good news? They don’t cause any harm. In fact, they’re helpful, they feed on decaying material and can even take in heavy metals like lead. So, if you can, it’s best to just leave them be. If you’re trying to tell them apart, pillbugs are the ones that can roll up into a tight little ball, while sowbugs can’t.

When it comes to planting trees and shrubs, diversity really matters. We’ve seen what happens when we rely too heavily on one type, like American elms, which were wiped out by Dutch elm disease, and now green ash trees are being hit hard by the emerald ash borer (along with native borers). Even some commonly planted pines and spruces are struggling with fungal diseases.

Mixing things up is the way to go. Some great evergreen options to consider are Concolor fir and Douglas fir. The five-needle pines are also solid choices, like limber pine, Japanese white pine, Korean pine (like ‘Silver Ray’), and Swiss stone pine.

If you’re thinking about adding shrubs, viburnums are definitely worth a look. They’re tough, handle winter well, and can tolerate dry conditions. One standout is the Sugar ‘n Spice viburnum—it grows fairly quickly to about 8 feet tall and wide and produces large, fragrant flower clusters that smell a bit like sweet cloves.

Now’s also the time to start thinking about crabgrass control in your lawn. Crabgrass begins to germinate when soil temperatures hit around 55°F. With cooler weather hanging around, aiming for around May 1st is usually a safe bet. If you’re targeting sandburs or foxtail as well, plan on a second application a couple of weeks later when soil temps reach about 65°F.

And one last thing that comes up a lot, cross-pollination in vine crops. You don’t need to worry too much about spacing them apart. A cucumber plant will always produce cucumbers true to its variety, and the same goes for melons and squash. The only time cross-pollination really matters is if you’re saving seeds; those seeds may produce something a little different the next year.

With all the temperature swings in the landscape we’ve been having lately, it’s no surprise our plants are a little confused. Those warm days get things growing, and then a cold snap comes right along and nips them back. It can be especially tough on perennials and spring bulbs just starting to wake up.

If your perennials took a hit and you’re seeing brown, frozen leaves, don’t panic. Just clean them up a bit, remove the dead foliage, and trim back any tip damage. Most of the time, the plant itself is still fine and will push new growth as things settle down. As for spring bulbs, this is a good time to practice a little patience. Leave them alone and see what happens. They’re tougher than they look. That said, if the damage was severe, you might see fewer or no blooms next year.

When you’re getting ready to work your flowerbeds or garden, a little prep goes a long way. Spread a couple of inches of compost or peat moss over the surface, then till it in about 3 to 4 inches deep. Try not to go much deeper than that, or you risk bringing a fresh batch of weed seeds up to the surface. If you’re dealing with heavier clay soil, mixing in some sand can help improve drainage and make things easier for roots to grow.

It’s also a great time to think about companion planting. Adding flowers in with your vegetables isn’t just for looks, they help attract pollinators, which can mean better yields on crops like tomatoes and vine plants. As for keeping pests away, results can vary. But if you’ve had success with certain combinations in the past, it’s worth sticking with what works.

Around the house, mulch can sometimes be more trouble than it’s worth, especially with wind and heavy rains. I’ve had bark chips wash away or scatter more times than I can count. One trick that’s worked well is using a light spray glue to hold the mulch in place. It keeps things looking neat, and it safely breaks down over time. Just keep in mind, it’s not a one-and-done fix—you’ll likely need to reapply it now and then.

If you’re thinking about adding a tree this year, one that’s been gaining popularity is the prairie golden aspen. It’s a bit tougher than the more common quaking aspen and handles conditions out here a little better. It can grow to around 40 feet tall with about 20 feet spread, and in the fall, it really puts on a show with bright yellow leaves. It’s not overly picky about soil, but like most trees, it does best in well-drained areas.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is a newer pest in our area, the bagworm. You’ll notice them as small, bag-like formations hanging from the tips of evergreen branches. If you catch them early, the easiest solution is just to pick them off and dispose of them. If you’re considering spraying, timing is everything. Treatments are most effective in June when the young caterpillars are active and exposed.

And finally, if you’re itching to get ahead on lawn care, especially with preemergent for crabgrass or sandbur, hold off just a bit longer. It’s still a little early, and applying too soon can reduce how well it works when you really need it.

This time of year is always a bit of a balancing act, but with a little patience and a few simple steps, your yard and garden will be in good shape heading into the growing season.

With these temperatures bouncing all over the place, it’s a good time to take a closer look at your trees and lawn.

One thing to watch for on evergreens is pine needle scale. They show up as hard little bumps on the needles and can lead to needle dieback. Don’t rush to treat them, just yet, wait until they reach the crawler stage in May. That’s the best time to apply something like insecticidal soap or an oil treatment such as Neem oil.

This time of year, it also makes it easy to spot black knot fungus on plums and chokecherries. You’ll see it as an elongated, black, rough growth toward the tips of branches. The best thing you can do is prune it out—cut at least 6 inches below the affected area to make sure you remove all of the infection and avoid spreading it further.

A lot of folks are noticing winterkill on evergreens, especially on the south side of the plant. This is really common with foundation plantings along the south side of the house. Between the dry winter and sun exposure, those plants just didn’t have enough moisture when they needed it. If you can carefully prune out the dead areas without leaving the plant too thin, go ahead and do so. Otherwise, it may be time to consider replacing it.

Dandelions are shaping up to be a bigger issue than usual this year. Some are already getting close to blooming, while others haven’t even popped up yet. When the timing is right, a Weed & Feed product can help. It’s important to apply it before those yellow flowers show up. Timing really is everything with dandelion control.

In the lawn, those bright green clumps that seem to jump out ahead of everything else are most likely smooth brome grass. It’s a perennial and can spread if left alone. So your best bet is to dig it out or spot-treat it with a grass-specific herbicide.

If you’re seeing those tiny flying gnats inside your home as we warm up, don’t worry, they’re more annoying than harmful. They won’t damage your plants. Let your houseplants dry out a bit more between waterings, and that should help keep them under control.

If your garden soil has dried out enough that you can actually work it without it sticking to everything, it’s go-time. This is a great time to get in there and do your tilling, so the soil is ready for planting.

You can also start putting in some of those early, cool-season crops. Things like radishes, spinach, and onion sets do just fine in these cooler temperatures, so there’s no need to wait. Getting them in now gives you a nice head start on the growing season.