Pruning trees and shrubs, Shrubs

Pruning Shrubs

Pruning shrubs is like giving them a spa day—it keeps them healthy, shapely, and looking their best. Here’s a rundown of what you need to know:

  • First off, timing is key. Most shrubs prefer a trim during their downtime, which is usually in late winter or early spring before they start stretching out with new growth. But hey, some shrubs, like lilacs, thrive when pruned after they’ve shown off their flowers. You wouldn’t want to snip away the blooms before they opened.
  • Before you even think about picking up those shears, take a good look at your shrub. Check for any dead, diseased, or downright unruly branches. Oh, and keep an eye out for those branches that seem to be twisting or rubbing around each other. They’ll need to be cut out too.
  • Say goodbye to any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Off they go, back to healthy tissue or even right down to the base if it’s a multistem shrub. If rabbits or mice have chewed around the branch, remove it.
  • Now, picture your ideal shrub shape in your mind’s eye. Now, let’s make it happen. Trim away any branches that are spoiling the view or heading off in the wrong direction.
  • If things are looking a bit crowded in there, it’s time to thin the herd. Selectively remove some branches to give the others some breathing room. Just remember, moderation is key—never lop off more than a third of the plant.
  • Heading back is like giving your shrub a little haircut. Snip off the tips of branches to encourage bushier growth. Aim for cuts just above outward-facing buds or branches to nudge them in the right direction.

For those shrubs that have let themselves go a bit, there’s always rejuvenation pruning depending on the variety of the shrub. It’s like hitting the reset button—cut the whole thing back to within a few inches of the ground and watch it bounce back with gusto.

When you’re wielding those shears, make sure you’re using proper pruning techniques. Clean cuts just above a bud or branch collar will keep your shrub happy and healthy. And whatever you do, avoid leaving any stubs behind—they’re like an open invitation for pests and diseases.

Lastly, step back every now and then and admire your handiwork.

Garden almanac, Garden hacks, Garden Pests

Green Thumb Talk for April 19

Ah, springtime brings a flurry of garden inquiries, doesn’t it? Let’s dive into some green thumb talk!

So, for tackling crabgrass, it’s all about timing. If you’re dealing with a light infestation, a post-May 1st application of pre-emergent herbicide should do the trick. But for those peskier, heavier infestations, a follow-up application about three weeks later can really knock ’em out. And don’t forget to give it a good watering to help it settle into the soil.

Now, when it comes to those broadleaf weeds like dandelions, a weed and feed combo before they bloom and when the leaf growth is hearty can work wonders. Scott’s 3X herbicide granular is a solid choice, but there are plenty of other brands out there with similar offerings.

And let’s not forget about those sneaky grasses creeping into the perennial beds or rock gardens. Grass B Gon can help clear them out, just make sure to read up on the precautions on the label.

Cicadas. Luckily, we’re safe here in the west, as they tend to steer east of South Dakota. The ones we do have around in late summer aren’t the heavy hitters, so no need to fret about them causing much trouble.

Now, those vertical cracks in young trees, especially fruit trees, can be a bit alarming, but they’re usually just frost cracks when the sap warms up on a winter day and then freezes at night. As long as they don’t extend too far down into the ground, the trees should heal up on their own.

The mole cricket, an unexpected visitor in the garden. These large brown crickets are usually in small numbers, they’re not much of a bother.

And speaking of unwelcome guests, ticks seem to be gearing up for a busy season. Time to stock up on Frontline for our furry friends and tidy up the backyard to keep those tick numbers in check. Always check with a vet for medications to prevent these bloodsuckers on your pet.

Remember, when it comes to planting trees and shrubs, don’t let a little freeze scare you off. Get ’em in the ground ASAP and let nature do its thing. Happy gardening!

Shade Trees and Shrubs

Shade Trees for South Dakota

In selecting shade trees for South Dakota, you’ve got to consider trees that can tough it out in our climate besides cottonwood. Here’s a lineup of some fantastic options:

Bur Oak

Bur Oak: This native Midwest gem, the Bur Oak, is tough, sturdy, and reliable. With its broad canopy, it’s your go-to choice for some serious shade.

American Elm

American Elm: Despite the hardships brought on by Dutch elm disease, there are still some American Elm disease-resistant varieties that can hold their own in South Dakota. They grow fast and sport that classic vase-shaped canopy.

Honeylocust

Honeylocust: Talk about versatility! Honeylocust trees thrive in all sorts of soil conditions, and with their delicate foliage, they provide that lovely, dappled shade perfect for chilling out in your yard. Plus, there’s a whole range of varieties to choose from, each with its unique leaf texture and color. The old “shelterbelt” variety had the pods and thorns.

Northern Catalpa

Northern Catalpa: With its large, heart-shaped leaves and fragrant flowers, the Northern Catalpa adds a touch of elegance to any landscape. It’s tough as nails and can handle whatever South Dakota throws its way.

Hackberry

Hackberry: This hardy tree laughs in the face of drought and poor soil conditions. Its broad canopy and bird-attracting berries make it a real winner, my favorite.

Red Maple

Red Maple: While it’s native to the eastern part of North America, certain hardy Red Maple varieties can still thrive in South Dakota. And let’s not forget about that stunning fall foliage. They are marginal because of their soil pH requirements.

Prairie Crabapple

Prairie Crabapple: If you’re looking to attract some wildlife to your garden, the Prairie Crabapple is your tree. Fragrant flowers in the spring and colorful fruit in the fall? It’s a win-win as a smaller tree.

Kentucky Coffeetree

Kentucky Coffeetree: Now here’s a tree that stands out from the crowd. With its unique compound leaves and drought tolerance, it’s sure to make a statement in your yard. It can be found in some nurseries in the state.

Russian Olive

Russian Olive: Adaptable and visually striking, the Russian Olive adds a touch of silver to your landscape. Just watch out for those thorns if you’re thinking of using it as a hedge! It can get up to 30 feet tall and can be invasive in wet areas.

Boxelder

Boxelder: Sure, Boxelder trees grow fast and provide wildlife benefits, but they do come with a tradeoff—weak wood and messy seeds. Still, with their yellow and green leaves or even white and green varieties, they can add some flair to your landscape.

Remember, before you start digging holes, think about your soil, drainage, and how much space you’ve got. It’s all about finding the right tree for the right spot.