Dandelions are popping up and blooming early this year, and honestly, it’s not much of a mystery. A milder winter and warmer spring gave them a head start. If you’re looking to keep them in check, spot spraying with a three-way weed killer can help. For best results, spray when they’re actively growing and daytime temps are around 60–75°F. Try not to mow right before or after spraying—give it a day or two so the plant can really take in the product.

That said, one of the best long-term fixes is improving your lawn itself. Increasing soil fertility and aerating will help thicken your grass and crowd out weeds naturally. And keep this in mind—fall is actually the most effective time to control dandelions since they’re pulling nutrients down into their roots. This will keep those dandelions from popping up.

Speaking of weed control, a lot of people are asking about Roundup. It’s a nonselective herbicide, meaning it will kill just about anything green it touches. The concern usually centers around glyphosate, but some newer Roundup products now use different active ingredients. That’s why it’s so important to read the label carefully. Not all products are meant for the same use, some are for lawns, others for driveways or gravel areas.

And let’s be honest, most of us skim the label and look at the rates. But the fine print is where the important details are, like where you can safely use it and what plants it may harm. Also, try to spray on calm days. Around here, wind drift can carry herbicides farther than you think and damage nearby plants.

The same goes for “all-natural” herbicides. Just because something sounds safer doesn’t mean it won’t cause damage. Ingredients like vinegar can burn or kill any plant they touch if used improperly. Natural or not, always follow the label directions.

Now, if you’re seeing mushrooms popping up in your lawn, don’t panic. They’re actually doing good work, breaking down organic matter in the soil—often old roots or buried wood. You’ll usually see them after a stretch of rain followed by warm temperatures. Sometimes they even show up in rings, which can point to old root systems underground.

In most cases, they’re harmless and temporary. The only time you may want to remove them is if you’ve got kids or pets that might try to eat them. Otherwise, you can mow them over or let them run their course. Improving drainage and reducing thatch can help cut down on future outbreaks. And no, most lawn mushrooms aren’t edible—best to leave taste-testing off the table.

For those keeping an eye on apple trees, if the freeze doesn’t knock back your crop and you’ve had issues with leaf spotting like scab or rust, it’s time to stay ahead of it. Apple scab usually shows up as dark olive spots on leaves, while cedar rust appears as bright orange spots. An all-purpose orchard spray applied after petals fall and once fruit sets can help manage these issues. From there, you’ll want to stay on a spray schedule—usually every 7–14 days, depending on weather conditions. Good airflow through proper pruning also helps reduce disease pressure.

Planting trees this time of year? Whether they’re bare-root or container-grown, make sure you plant them at the same depth they were growing before. With bare root trees, look for that color change on the trunk—that marks the old soil line. Planting too deeply can lead to bark splitting and rot later on.

If you’re planting from a container and see roots circling, take a knife and make a couple of vertical cuts in two or three places. This keeps the roots from girdling the tree years down the road. After planting, water deeply and keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) through the first growing season. Adding 2–3 inches of mulch helps retain moisture, just keep it pulled back from the trunk. In our windy conditions, staking young trees for the first year can also help keep them upright.

Another tough shrub to consider is the Pearl Bush. It’s part of the rose family and grows about 5 to 6 feet tall and wide. It’s one of the first shrubs to bloom, covered in white flowers early in the season, and even the dry seed pods add some winter interest. It does best in full sun to light shade and prefers well-drained soil. Like lilacs, it blooms on old wood, so any pruning should be done right after it flowers.

With the early spring we’re seeing, staying a step ahead on lawn care and planting now will make all the difference as we head into summer.

You might be noticing a bunch of little gray “bugs” with lots of legs hanging out in your basement, under mulch, or around old wood. Those are sowbugs or pillbugs. Fun fact: they’re not actually insects at all, they’re crustaceans… more closely related to lobsters than anything else!

They love cool, damp, dark places, which is why they show up where they do. The good news? They don’t cause any harm. In fact, they’re helpful, they feed on decaying material and can even take in heavy metals like lead. So, if you can, it’s best to just leave them be. If you’re trying to tell them apart, pillbugs are the ones that can roll up into a tight little ball, while sowbugs can’t.

When it comes to planting trees and shrubs, diversity really matters. We’ve seen what happens when we rely too heavily on one type, like American elms, which were wiped out by Dutch elm disease, and now green ash trees are being hit hard by the emerald ash borer (along with native borers). Even some commonly planted pines and spruces are struggling with fungal diseases.

Mixing things up is the way to go. Some great evergreen options to consider are Concolor fir and Douglas fir. The five-needle pines are also solid choices, like limber pine, Japanese white pine, Korean pine (like ‘Silver Ray’), and Swiss stone pine.

If you’re thinking about adding shrubs, viburnums are definitely worth a look. They’re tough, handle winter well, and can tolerate dry conditions. One standout is the Sugar ‘n Spice viburnum—it grows fairly quickly to about 8 feet tall and wide and produces large, fragrant flower clusters that smell a bit like sweet cloves.

Now’s also the time to start thinking about crabgrass control in your lawn. Crabgrass begins to germinate when soil temperatures hit around 55°F. With cooler weather hanging around, aiming for around May 1st is usually a safe bet. If you’re targeting sandburs or foxtail as well, plan on a second application a couple of weeks later when soil temps reach about 65°F.

And one last thing that comes up a lot, cross-pollination in vine crops. You don’t need to worry too much about spacing them apart. A cucumber plant will always produce cucumbers true to its variety, and the same goes for melons and squash. The only time cross-pollination really matters is if you’re saving seeds; those seeds may produce something a little different the next year.

With all the temperature swings in the landscape we’ve been having lately, it’s no surprise our plants are a little confused. Those warm days get things growing, and then a cold snap comes right along and nips them back. It can be especially tough on perennials and spring bulbs just starting to wake up.

If your perennials took a hit and you’re seeing brown, frozen leaves, don’t panic. Just clean them up a bit, remove the dead foliage, and trim back any tip damage. Most of the time, the plant itself is still fine and will push new growth as things settle down. As for spring bulbs, this is a good time to practice a little patience. Leave them alone and see what happens. They’re tougher than they look. That said, if the damage was severe, you might see fewer or no blooms next year.

When you’re getting ready to work your flowerbeds or garden, a little prep goes a long way. Spread a couple of inches of compost or peat moss over the surface, then till it in about 3 to 4 inches deep. Try not to go much deeper than that, or you risk bringing a fresh batch of weed seeds up to the surface. If you’re dealing with heavier clay soil, mixing in some sand can help improve drainage and make things easier for roots to grow.

It’s also a great time to think about companion planting. Adding flowers in with your vegetables isn’t just for looks, they help attract pollinators, which can mean better yields on crops like tomatoes and vine plants. As for keeping pests away, results can vary. But if you’ve had success with certain combinations in the past, it’s worth sticking with what works.

Around the house, mulch can sometimes be more trouble than it’s worth, especially with wind and heavy rains. I’ve had bark chips wash away or scatter more times than I can count. One trick that’s worked well is using a light spray glue to hold the mulch in place. It keeps things looking neat, and it safely breaks down over time. Just keep in mind, it’s not a one-and-done fix—you’ll likely need to reapply it now and then.

If you’re thinking about adding a tree this year, one that’s been gaining popularity is the prairie golden aspen. It’s a bit tougher than the more common quaking aspen and handles conditions out here a little better. It can grow to around 40 feet tall with about 20 feet spread, and in the fall, it really puts on a show with bright yellow leaves. It’s not overly picky about soil, but like most trees, it does best in well-drained areas.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is a newer pest in our area, the bagworm. You’ll notice them as small, bag-like formations hanging from the tips of evergreen branches. If you catch them early, the easiest solution is just to pick them off and dispose of them. If you’re considering spraying, timing is everything. Treatments are most effective in June when the young caterpillars are active and exposed.

And finally, if you’re itching to get ahead on lawn care, especially with preemergent for crabgrass or sandbur, hold off just a bit longer. It’s still a little early, and applying too soon can reduce how well it works when you really need it.

This time of year is always a bit of a balancing act, but with a little patience and a few simple steps, your yard and garden will be in good shape heading into the growing season.