Gardening & Landscape

In the Garden this Week


Just a heads-up in the garden this week with this wonky weather we’ve been having lately: keep an eye on your rhubarb patch. With the temps jumping around, you might notice it starting to seed. No biggie, just snip off those seed stems at ground level so they don’t sap energy from the plant.

And speaking of planting, if you’re getting some new trees for shade or fruit, remember not to bury them too deep. You’ll usually see a lighter line on the trunk plant to that line usually just above the soil ball. I have seen newly planted trees struggling to grow for several of years and then die because they were planted too deeply.

Especially crucial if you’re dealing with grafted trees like dwarf or semi-dwarf fruit trees. The sweet spot for those is typically about one to two inches below the soil line, focusing on protecting that bud union (swollen area) where the top meets the rootstock.

Now, about that grass: if you’ve hit it with some weed killer or weed and feed, hold off on using those clippings for mulch until after a couple of mowings. Just to be safe and avoid any lingering herbicides.

The “insect” of the week is the tick. Keep them at bay by giving your grass a shorter cut in spring and tidying up any tick-friendly spots like old wood piles and last year’s leaves. And when you’re out and about, give your clothes a spritz to keep those buggers from hitching a ride into your home. Interestingly, the tick will climb up the plant and hold its four front legs out to grab onto an animal. This is called questing.

Pruning trees and shrubs, Shrubs

Pruning Shrubs

Pruning shrubs is like giving them a spa day—it keeps them healthy, shapely, and looking their best. Here’s a rundown of what you need to know:

  • First off, timing is key. Most shrubs prefer a trim during their downtime, which is usually in late winter or early spring before they start stretching out with new growth. But hey, some shrubs, like lilacs, thrive when pruned after they’ve shown off their flowers. You wouldn’t want to snip away the blooms before they opened.
  • Before you even think about picking up those shears, take a good look at your shrub. Check for any dead, diseased, or downright unruly branches. Oh, and keep an eye out for those branches that seem to be twisting or rubbing around each other. They’ll need to be cut out too.
  • Say goodbye to any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Off they go, back to healthy tissue or even right down to the base if it’s a multistem shrub. If rabbits or mice have chewed around the branch, remove it.
  • Now, picture your ideal shrub shape in your mind’s eye. Now, let’s make it happen. Trim away any branches that are spoiling the view or heading off in the wrong direction.
  • If things are looking a bit crowded in there, it’s time to thin the herd. Selectively remove some branches to give the others some breathing room. Just remember, moderation is key—never lop off more than a third of the plant.
  • Heading back is like giving your shrub a little haircut. Snip off the tips of branches to encourage bushier growth. Aim for cuts just above outward-facing buds or branches to nudge them in the right direction.

For those shrubs that have let themselves go a bit, there’s always rejuvenation pruning depending on the variety of the shrub. It’s like hitting the reset button—cut the whole thing back to within a few inches of the ground and watch it bounce back with gusto.

When you’re wielding those shears, make sure you’re using proper pruning techniques. Clean cuts just above a bud or branch collar will keep your shrub happy and healthy. And whatever you do, avoid leaving any stubs behind—they’re like an open invitation for pests and diseases.

Lastly, step back every now and then and admire your handiwork.

Garden almanac, Garden hacks, Garden Pests

Green Thumb Talk for April 19

Ah, springtime brings a flurry of garden inquiries, doesn’t it? Let’s dive into some green thumb talk!

So, for tackling crabgrass, it’s all about timing. If you’re dealing with a light infestation, a post-May 1st application of pre-emergent herbicide should do the trick. But for those peskier, heavier infestations, a follow-up application about three weeks later can really knock ’em out. And don’t forget to give it a good watering to help it settle into the soil.

Now, when it comes to those broadleaf weeds like dandelions, a weed and feed combo before they bloom and when the leaf growth is hearty can work wonders. Scott’s 3X herbicide granular is a solid choice, but there are plenty of other brands out there with similar offerings.

And let’s not forget about those sneaky grasses creeping into the perennial beds or rock gardens. Grass B Gon can help clear them out, just make sure to read up on the precautions on the label.

Cicadas. Luckily, we’re safe here in the west, as they tend to steer east of South Dakota. The ones we do have around in late summer aren’t the heavy hitters, so no need to fret about them causing much trouble.

Now, those vertical cracks in young trees, especially fruit trees, can be a bit alarming, but they’re usually just frost cracks when the sap warms up on a winter day and then freezes at night. As long as they don’t extend too far down into the ground, the trees should heal up on their own.

The mole cricket, an unexpected visitor in the garden. These large brown crickets are usually in small numbers, they’re not much of a bother.

And speaking of unwelcome guests, ticks seem to be gearing up for a busy season. Time to stock up on Frontline for our furry friends and tidy up the backyard to keep those tick numbers in check. Always check with a vet for medications to prevent these bloodsuckers on your pet.

Remember, when it comes to planting trees and shrubs, don’t let a little freeze scare you off. Get ’em in the ground ASAP and let nature do its thing. Happy gardening!