Kitchen Efficiency

There are cost-effective ideas for changing your kitchen efficiency. Start with an area like a cabinet containing bulky appliances like a coffee maker adding different types of coffees making it a coffee bar or the same with a baking/mixing station.

Built-in coffee bar.

Not enough counter space? By adding a small table with rollers and break down sides. Add a couple of chairs and you have a small kitchen eating area. It will serve as a prep table and family meals. Also, place in the wall metal hooks for your cookware.

If you do not have cabinets, add shelves (floating shelves). Store less-used items on the top shelves. Add some new cabinet knobs and handles.

A lighter-colored kitchen is more effective, so a light paint color helps. Try lighter floor coverings to brighten your kitchen. More light may make you want to stay in your kitchen longer. Pendent lighting looks nice and still allows for airflow.

Do you have that empty corner or empty space by the refrigerator? Build a hutch in that space. A backsplash around the sink or stove area creates a focal point. Also, cleanup is easier.

Little things like a lazy Susan and redesign the interior of draws will make life easier. Labeled jars of flour, sugar, cornmeal, etc. and labeled bottles of vinegar and olive oil helps organize your work.

If you are lucky enough that you have a kitchen window, add some pots with living herbs to the windowsill. The taste of fresh herbs is nothing like dried herbs.

Die-back

Trees and shrubs in South Dakota have been slow to leaf out due to the winter. A lot of woody plants are showing signs of die-back or total death. Most likely due to the winter going through warm and cold periods.

My honeylocust tree is over 10 years old and is only showing 30% growth. Guess it is time to take a chainsaw to it.

Honey locust tree showing winter die-back.
Winter die-back on a honeylocust

If your plant in showing die-back and you do not want to replace it, you can try saving it. Start a good water and fertilizer regime to keep it in good health this summer. Prune out all the dead limbs and twigs to the nearest branch and trunk to prevent a disease or insects from entering the plant.

Drip Irrigation System

A drip irrigation system allows water to be dispersed along the base and roots of the plants instead of using overhead sprinklers. My mother used a drip system which was digging trenches with a hoe along the plants with bisecting channels to other areas of the garden. My job was damming the channel and allowing water to go to another channel.

Drip irrigation system setup

Why use drip irrigation to begin with?

  1. Conserve water without losing any to wind and evaporation. Since the water comes out slowly, the water goes into the soil easier with running off. Saves on the money.
  2. It keeps the leaves of the plants dry, meaning there will be fewer fungus diseases like Septoria in tomatoes. Also does not wash off the insecticide or fungicide you may have spray allowing for fewer applications.
  3. Saves time. I turn mine on in the morning and turn it off early in the evening.
  4. It is easy to install and leave in place all summer and fall. I drain the hoses in late fall, roll them up, and put back the following spring.
  5. You can get a cheap fertilizer injector making fertilizer application very easy.

Most common systems are a ยฝ inch delivery hose where you can insert ยผ inch drip lines (with pre-punched holes spaced 12 inches). Always get the little water pressure reducer for the system. Then you do not have to guess if your pressure is too high or low.

Pre-punched line with hole spacing 12 inches

Soaker hoses are a form of drip irrigation, however, if you have a large area, they can get expensive.

Drip tube running down onion rows
Drip line going under plastic mulch with tomatoes.