It is a honeysuckle shrub. There have been a lot of questions last week about a shrub being found in areas that were not noticed before. This time of year you can tell by the “choke cherry” sized seed capsules. Birds can carry the seeds for miles.
The new varieties produce a nice compact shrub with reddish flowers while the old “shelterbelt” kinds are leggy with white flowers, however, I think the flowers have more of a honey-like fragrance. The berries are mildly toxic so leave them for the robins and waxwings.
Most people know the flowering tobacco annual flowers. You can find them at the greenhouses or order the seed online. Easy to grow, coming in many colors: white, lavender, red, and shades in between.
I plant the variety Nicotiana alata, which grows up to 4 feet tall with white flowers opening at night giving off a jasmine order. Its main pollinator is the large sphinx moth which has been flying around at night with the fireflies. Being a bright white color, they seem to glow in the moonlight.
I started these indoors and wondered if they would germinate because the seed is smaller than sand. I did not cover them and they all popped up within a week. The wind does not seem to bother the plants much.
Being related to the regular tobacco plant, the nicotine in the leaves deter most insects and pests from munching on the leaves. Some varmint took a bite out of a leaf and spit it out, I believe it was a deer.
There is a variety of Nicotiana alata called Sensation which grows around 3 feet tall and is bushier. Then there are the Nicotiana sanderae which are the common greenhouse bedding plants growing around 15 inches tall with bright colored flowers.
Most of the questions that will be coming in will relate to tomato problems, and earlier this summer, relate to tomato problems.
Septoria Leaf Spot
As in most years, the most frequent problem with tomatoes this year will be leaf spot and blight being so humid and hot along with the rain recently. There are several common fungal blights with Septoria leaf spot being the most common. It causes small dark spots on the leaves then the leaves tend to turn yellow and fall off. It usually starts at the bottom of the plant and works its way upwards. If you water your garden with overhead sprinklers, that can spread it too. This disease usually does not cause damage to the fruit, but the plant loses so many leaves that it cannot support a good crop of fruit and the remaining fruit can get sunscald.
Early BlightLate Blight
The other two main diseases of tomatoes are late blight and early blight. They cause larger, blotchy spots to develop on the leaves and fruit. Early blight can happen now with late blight later in August. All three of these diseases can be controlled with a preventive fungicide spray especially when you start to see the early signs. Use an all-purpose garden fungicide Daconil.
Not common in our area are bacterial spot and bacterial speck. These bacterial diseases cause small dark spots to develop on the fruit and leaves. The spots are usually surrounded by a yellow halo at the initial stages of the disease. Unlike fungal diseases, fungicides are of little use in controlling bacterial disease problems.
Since I have mulch around the plants with plastic mulch, the problem has been reduced. Spacing plants apart and staking to allow for good air circulation is also helpful. Using tomato cages around plants can help too. Unfortunately, most of the inexpensive tomato cages that are sold are simply not that strong and usually collapse under the weight of a large plant in a windstorm, so I pound a tee post into the ground and tie it to the cage. A stronger cage or other support is more helpful. Using drip tube irrigation helps control foliage diseases by keeping them dry without having to overhead water.
