Deer-proof Garden

Readers have asked for advice on planting a deer-proof garden. In a word: plastic.

However, when it comes to real, living plants, “deer-proof” is not a realizable goal. The best we can hope for is to come up with a list of deer-resistant plants. In general, these are plants that deer don’t like well enough to eat all of, or plants that grow faster than the deer can eat them.
Over the years, I’ve seen lists of plants that deer love and plants that deer hate, and I have been fascinated to notice some of the same plants on both sides. It seems that deer in one area eat things that deer elsewhere don’t.

They also can change their habits. For many years, deer in my yard ignored my garden, but last year ate tomatoes and cucumbers down to the ground. I now have deer that browse the new growth on ivy, which I’ve never seen before. On one notable occasion, a deer ate the better part of a large, extremely toxic angel trumpet, yet I found no dead Bambi in the driveway.

Voracious and charming, greedy and beautiful, deer can be the bane or the grace of the garden. Although young deer will eat pretty much anything, mature deer are more discriminating.

Though there really is no such thing as a deer-proof plant, there definitely are deer-resistant ones. Often these are plants with hairy, smelly, waxy, dense or highly textured foliage. I have quite a lot of experience with deer, having been blessed with many of them in each of my gardens. At present, my yard hosts a clutch of young bucks in the lower back yard which are mainly cattails.
They come out of the cattails and go to the alfalfa across my driveway and occasionally come up to the yard of the house. They seem to be not afraid of the dogs at all.

Here are some of the more resistant plants:

Bulbs
Allium (ornamental onions), Begonia (tuberous begonia), Crocosmia, dahlia, Endymion (Spanish bluebells), freesia, Galanthus (snowdrops), gladiolus, hyacinths, daffodils, Scilla (squill), Polianthes (tuberose).

Shrubs and sub-shrubs
Abelia, Berberis (barberry), Brugmansia (angels trumpet), Buxus (boxwood), cotoneaster, daphne, Datura, Hypericum (St. John’s wort), juniper, lavender, spruce, Pieris (lily-of-the-valley shrub), pine, Potentilla (cinquefoil), laurel, Rhus (sumac), Ribes (flowering currant), rosemary, sage, spirea, lilac, viburnum, and ironwood.
Perennials
Aconitum (monkshood), yarrow, Agastache (hummingbird plant), Alyssum (basket-of-gold), Artemisia, aster, Aubrieta (rockcress), Bergenia (leatherleaf), chrysanthemum, Crambe (sea kale), Digitalis (foxglove), Echinacea (coneflower), Erigeron (fleabane), Eryngium (sea holly), Euphorbia (spurge), fennel, ferns (all), Gaillardia (blanket flower), geranium, hellebore, iris, Kniphofia (poker plant), Lavatera (mallow), lupine, Meconopsis (Welsh poppy), Monarda (bee balm), Nepeta (catmint), Oenothera (evening primrose), Papaver (poppies), Penstemon (beardtongue), Perovskia (Russian sage), Phlomis, Phormium (New Zealand flax), Pulmonaria (lungwort), rhubarb, Rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), Santolina (lavender cotton), Scabiosa (pincushion flower), Stachys (lamb’s ear), thyme, Verbascum (mullein), verbena.
Annuals
Alyssum (sweet alyssum), Calendula (port marigold), Clarkia (farewell to spring), Cleome (spider flower), Eschscholzia (California poppy), heliotrope, lobelia, forget-me-not, nasturtium, Nicotiana (flowering tobacco), Papaver (poppies), Pelargonium (geranium), petunia, Ricinus (castor bean), marigold, verbena, zinnia.

Vegetables
Asparagus, rhubarb, potato, and lima beans.

Unfinished Basement to a Living Space

An unfinished basement, with its concrete floor and exposed joists, may seem dreary and cold. But in reality, it is an enormous blank canvas just waiting for your inspired ideas and artistic vision. The fact is, you don’t really need niceties like drywall and …

Lay Down Foam Mats

Most unfinished basements have a poured concrete floor. Soften it up for playtime or workout time with square foam floor mats. They come in assorted sizes and colors and join like a puzzle—and they’re easy to pick up and move elsewhere or stack away and store when your needs change.

String Some Lighting

Most unfinished basements have very few electrical outlets and just a couple of naked bulb fixtures mounted in the ceiling. Bring more light to the space and create a playful ambience by hanging some industrial string lights. With just one outlet, you can illuminate a large area with several strings of lights.

Throw Down Area Rugs

Area rugs can warm up a cold basement floor quickly. Depending on the size of your space, you could use one large rug or several smaller ones. You could even go for carpeting remnants—a low-cost, effective option that can both cozy up a basement and help define different functional areas in the space. 

Install Storage

Having an extra floor below grade means you have a lot of potential storage space underfoot. Make the most of your unfinished basement by putting up shelving to store off-season clothing, sporting gear, tools, and more.

Paint Your Cinder Block

Basement walls of cinder block, brick, or even poured concrete can be transformed pretty quickly and simply with a coat of paint. Go for a solid color or get wild and design a mural to brighten up that subterranean space of yours.

 

Hang Curtains

No walls? No problem! Put up a simple and inexpensive curtain system to divide space and add dimension to an unfinished basement. If you can’t install a track on the ceiling, try stretching picture wire taut across the room, then attach café hooks to flat sheets for an easy no-sew DIY project perfect for a beginner.

 Craft a Canopy for Your Ceiling

If the rafter ceiling in your unfinished basement feels too cold and industrial for your taste, soften it by hanging swaths of fabric to create a beautiful canopy ceiling. In this billowy basement, a whimsical pendant light complements the canopy perfectly—but even on its own, the fabric makes a soothing impact.

Build a Workshop

Every do-it-yourselfer needs a place to make the magic happen. What better spot for a workshop than an unfinished basement? A sturdy concrete floor makes cleanup easier, and open studs and rafters provide excellent organization and storage space with the simple addition of pegboard and shelving.

Paint the Rafters

Painting the exposed beams of your basement ceiling can make the entire space feel more finished without heavy renovation. As a bonus, all your utilities will remain completely accessible, in case you need to make repairs to your ceiling in the future.

 

Create a Partition

Installing a small, temporary wall can help to delineate space without requiring permits and major planning. Once the curtain is drawn in front of the washer/dryer, this basement laundry room essentially disappears, letting the wet bar take center stage.

Brighten Up the Floor

Your unfinished basement’s concrete floor is a blank canvas, and a coat of paint can make a huge difference. This straightforward DIY project will give you a big bang for your buck.

Growing Castor Bean

Castor Bean, Ricinus communis

With oversized, tropical-looking leaves and bizarre seed pods, castor bean is an exotic addition to the ornamental garden. The only member of the genus, Ricinus communis is in the Spurge Family (Euphorbiaceae). The word ricinus is Latin for “tick”, used for this plant name because of the superficial resemblance of the seeds to a species of European tick. Castor bean is native to tropical east Africa around Ethiopia but has naturalized in tropical and subtropical areas around the world to become a weed in many places, including the southwestern U.S. Plants are typically found in moist, well-drained soils in disturbed areas, such as along river beds and roadsides, and in fallow fields or at the edges of cultivated lands.

Castor bean is an evergreen herbaceous or semi-woody large shrub or small tree. This robust tender perennial can grow to 40 feet tall, developing woody stems over a few years in frost-free climates. Because of its rapid, vigorous growth, it is easily grown as a warm season annual in temperate climates, but it rarely exceeds 6-10 feet in a single growing season. This fast-growing plant tends to grow straight up at first, developing branches later in the season to form a well-proportioned shrub with sturdy stems and a dense canopy. The plant is killed when the temperature drops below 32F. Unlike many members of the euphorbia family, this plant does not have milky latex sap, but has a watery sap.

The alternate, star-shaped leaves on long stems can grow over 2½ feet across. Each palmate leaf has 5 to11 deeply incised lobes, with serrated edges and prominent central veins. The species has glossy green leaves, but cultivated selections may have black-purplish, dark red-metallic, bronze-green, or maroon leaves, or bright green leaves with white veins.

Flowers are produced in dense inflorescences 8-18″ tall at the tops of the stems. The flowers do not have petals and are not particularly showy. The ½ inch male flowers each have a cluster of many cream or yellow stamens that shed substantial amounts of wind-borne pollen.

The seed pods may be green, pink, or red (depending on the variety), but gradually age to brown. Each spherical, seed capsule is thickly covered with soft flexible spines and has three sections that separate when the seeds are mature. Each section contains one seed that is ejected, often with considerable force, when the pod splits open.

The ½ inch long seeds, or “beans” (they are not true beans), are produced in large numbers where the growing season is long enough (140 to 180 days). The shiny, intricately mottled seeds are quite attractive, each with their own unique design in colors of black, gray, brown, yellow-brown, maroon and white.

Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years in frost free areas. About half the weight of the seed is a thick, yellowish or almost colorless oil that has been used in many industrial applications. The oil was used in ancient times as fuel for lamps, and is now used in paints and varnishes, for water-resistant coatings, in high-performance motor oils, soap, inks, and plastics. Other derivatives are used in polishes, as solid lubricants, in synthetic perfumes and other products. Plants are grown commercially for oil production primarily in India and Brazil, but also in some parts of the U.S. and other countries.

The seeds are extremely poisonous, so keep plants out of reach of children (or trim off flowering spike if this is a concern). The toxin in castor seeds is ricin, one of the deadliest natural poisons, estimated as 6,000 times more poisonous than cyanide and 12,000 times more poisonous than rattlesnake venom. As few as four seeds can kill an average-sized adult, while ingestion of lesser amounts will result in vomiting, severe abdominal pain, diarrhea, and convulsions. Livestock and poultry can also be affected if they consume seeds or meal from the seeds. Although it is a very potent poison, ricin has been investigated as an anti-cancer agent. Ricin is water soluble, not lipid (oil) soluble, so it is not released during the pressing process, remaining in the leftover “seed cake.” This residue is used as a high-nitrogen fertilizer, or after detoxicating, the meal can be used as livestock feed. Since the toxin does not occur in the pure oil, castor oil can be consumed and has been used medicinally as a remedy for everything from constipation to heartburn. It is an effective cathartic or purgative (laxative) and can be used externally as an emollient for dry skin.

When grown as an ornamental, castor bean can be planted directly in the garden in late spring or started indoors earlier (6-8 weeks before the average last frost) and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. Nick or scarify the seeds or soak overnight for better germination then I placed the seeds in water overnight. Sow the seeds 1-1½ inches deep. Seedlings should start coming up in 1-3 weeks. The young plants grow quite quickly and may need repotting into larger containers before transplanting outdoors. Place the plants outdoors in full sun and deep, rich soil about 4 feet apart or one plant can be a great accent plant. Provide plenty of water and fertilizer to achieve the largest size. Once established it can tolerate drought. Wind can shred the leaves, so they should be placed in a protected spot if possible. Plants can be pruned to limit the size or may need staking if top heavy; otherwise this plant needs very little maintenance. Castor bean has few pests, although spider mites can sometimes be a problem in hot, dry weather.

With its large leaves and tall stature, castor bean makes a bold statement in the garden. The coarse texture contrasts well with finely textured plants. Grow castor bean as a specimen for a dramatic focal point in the landscape, or in groups for a tropical effect in the back of beds or near water features. It can be used to create a temporary screen or informal hedge or can be grown in large containers on patios. Castor bean combines well with cannas and elephant ears for a tropical garden. Or use it as a backdrop for grasses and other large-scaled annuals for a more traditional look.

A range of varieties have been selected for their leaf or flower/fruit colors, and for oil production. Some of the most common ornamental types include:

‘Carmencita Bright Red’ – has red stems and bright red seed pods, along with dark purplish or bronzy-red leaves. This well-branched cultivar grows about 5-6 feet tall.

‘Carmencita Pink’ – has pinkish-red stems and seed pods.

‘Carmencita Rose’ – has blue-green foliage and peach-colored seed pods.

‘Gibsonii’ – with dark red-tinged leaves and pinkish seed pods, it grows 4-5 feet tall.

‘Impala’ – a more compact cultivar that grows to 4 feet tall with reddish-purple leaves and stems, with the brightest color on the new growth.

‘New Zealand purple’ – has smaller, reddish purple leaves and branches less than other types.

‘Red Spire’ – grows 7-10 feet tall, with red stems, bronze leaves, and red seed pods.

‘Sanguineus’ – has blood-red stems and leaves.

‘Zanzibarensis’ – another tall variety (7-10 feet) with green leaves with white midribs is the variety I grow.